Bande À Part

We talk about Alison Ellwood’s documentary about The Go-Go’s and the band members’ fabulous clothes, hair and make-up. See links below. Alison Ellwood (director), The Go-Go’s (2020): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt11394468/ The Go-Go’s (2020) Official Trailer, Showtime Documentary Film (1 July 2020): https://youtu.be/GsiRfL11I08 Variety, ‘The Go-Go’s dive into their history in new documentary at Sundance’ (28 January 2020): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cHS5gdKSUcY Keaton Bell, ‘How the Go-Go’s Found Their Beat: An Oral History’, Vogue (4 August 2020): https://www.vogue.com/article/go-gos-40th-anniversary-beauty-and-the-beat-oral-history-belinda-carlisle The Go-Go’s – We Got The Beat: https://youtu.be/f55KlPe81Yw The Go-Go’s – Vacation: https://youtu.be/2RHTiXvELNg The Go-Go’s – Turn To You: https://youtu.be/gc-WHZ0AH50 The Go-Go’s – Our Lips Are Sealed: https://youtu.be/r3kQlzOi27M Fun Boy Three, Our Lips Are Sealed (1983, uploaded 13 July 2017): https://youtu.be/QhVhK-VVeXo John Waters (dir

We talk about Kent State University Museum’s inspiring exhibition ‘Stitched: Regional Dress Across Europe’. See links below. Kent State University Museum: https://www.instagram.com/ksumuseum/ Jean L. Druesedow: https://www.kent.edu/museum/profile/jean-l-druesedow Shannon Rodgers and Jerry Silverman papers, Kent State University Libraries: https://www.library.kent.edu/special-collections-and-archives/shannon-rodgers-and-jerry-silverman-papers ‘Stitched: Regional Dress Across Europe’, Kent State University Museum, Kent, Ohio (2 February – 19 December 2021): https://www.kent.edu/museum/event/stitched-regional-dress-across-europe KSU Museum, ‘Fashion Focus: Stitched Regional Dress across Europe’, YouTube (5 February 2021): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xwwT-abxCOQ Solveig Strand, ‘The Norwegian Bunad: Peasant Dress, Embroidered Costume and National Symbol’, The Journal of Dress History, Volume 2, Issue 3 (Autumn 2018): https://dresshistorians.org/wp/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/The-Journal-of-Dress-His

We talk about the challenges of packing museum objects and Poiret’s and Drecoll’s dresses for Jean Epstein’s 1925 film ‘Le Double Amour’. See links below. How to store a wedding dress, Museum of London (16 September 2013): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eHcQug5ZJd4 Jean Epstein (director); Drecoll, Paul Poiret (dresses for Nathalie Lissenko); Pierre Kéfer (décors, executed by Lazare Meerson), Le Double Amour (1925): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0237181/ Le Double Amour on the Cinémathèque française website: https://www.cinematheque.fr/henri/film/48362-le-double-amour-jean-epstein-1925/ Cycle Jean Epstein – Le Double Amour, DVD Classik (not dated): https://www.dvdclassik.com/critique/le-double-amour-epstein Bernard Boutet de Monvel, Stephen Ongpin Fine Art: https://www.stephenongpin.com/object/805553/0/bernard-boutet-de-monvel-paris-1884; also: https://www.instagram.com/boutet.de.monvel/ Birgit Haase and Adelheid Rasche, ‘Christoph Drecoll: Rediscovering the Viennese Worth’, Costume, Volume 53, Iss

We marvel at the costumes and puzzle over the plot line of Jean Epstein’s 1924 silent film ‘Le Lion des Mogols’. See links below. Nike GO FlyEase: https://news.nike.com/news/nike-go-flyease-hands-free-shoe Cornercopia Store: https://cornercopiastore.co.uk/ Jean Epstein (director), Boris Bilinsky (costume design), The Lion of the Moguls (1924): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0191246/ Le Lion de Mogols on the Cinémathèque française website: https://www.cinematheque.fr/henri/film/48393-le-lion-des-mogols-jean-epstein-1924/ François Albera, Albatros: Des Russes à Paris, 1919-1929 (Cinémathèque française 1995): http://www.cineressources.net/consultationPdf/web/o000/592.pdf Samantha Leroy, Jean Epstein / Fiction / France / 1924 – Autour de Film: https://www.cinematheque.fr/catalogues/restaurations-tirages/film.php?id=48393#autour-du-film Michael Organ and René Clémenti-Bilinsky (compiled by), ‘Boris Bilinsky French Metropolis Posters & Montages 1927’ (2016): https://documents.uow.edu.au/~morgan/metrojc.h

We discuss gender and race relations and the use of clothes in Ann Petry’s 1946 novel The Street. See links below. Ann Petry, The Street (Virago 2019, first published 1946): https://www.virago.co.uk/titles/ann-petry-5/the-street/9780349012926/ Ann Petry, The Narrows (Virago 2020, first published 1953): https://www.virago.co.uk/titles/ann-petry-5/the-narrows/9780349013398/ Biographical information for Ann Petry at New York Public Library: http://archives.nypl.org/scm/24832#overview Tayari Jones, ‘In praise of Ann Petry’, The New York Times (10 November 2018): https://www.nytimes.com/2018/11/10/books/review/in-praise-of-ann-petry.html Tayari Jones, ‘The Street: the 1940s African American thriller that became a huge bestseller’, The Guardian (14 December 2019): https://www.theguardian.com/books/2019/dec/14/the-street-the-1940s-african-american-thriller-that-became-a-huge-bestseller Heather J. Hicks, ‘Rethinking Realism in Ann Petry’s “The Street”, Melus. Vol. 27, No. 4 (Winter 2002): https://www.jsto

Bande à part is three years old! We posted our very first episode in January 2018, listen again to celebrate our very first conversation. Hear us discuss Unzipped, Douglas Keeve’s 1995 documentary about the truly wonderful Isaac Mizrahi, and Beatrice’s foray into learning the art of visible mending. See links below. The Conversations with Jason Campbell & Henrietta Gallina: https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/the-conversations/id1328893989 Emily Spivack, Worn Stories: http://wornstories.com/ Heidi Julavits, Leanne Shapton, Sheila Heti, Women in Clothes (2014): www.penguin.co.uk/books/196157/women-in-clothes/9781846148354.html Visible Mending: https://humantextilewellness.wordpress.com/ http://celiapym.com/ https://tomofholland.com/ http://www.woolfiller.com/ http://www.addresspublications.com/mended-scars/ http://goldenjoinery.com/ Boro: The Fabric of Life: https://www.boisbuchet.org/exhibitions/boro-the-fabric-of-life/ Douglas Keeve (director), Unzipped (1995): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt011

We unexpectedly become fascinated with clowns and their make-up, including Joseph Grimaldi. See links below. Leichner Kosmetik: https://www.cosmeticsandskin.com/companies/leichner.php Dave Fagundes and Aaron Perzanowski, The fascinating reason why clowns paint their faces on eggs, BBC Future (6 December 2017): https://www.bbc.com/future/article/20171206-the-fascinating-reason-why-clowns-paint-their-faces-on-eggs Costume worn by Joseph Grimaldi (1800-1823), Museum of London: https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/794735.html Carold Reed (director), Veniero Colasanti (costume design), Trapeze (1956): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0049875/ Mode Circus Knie, Textilmuseum St. Gallen (7 March 2019 – 19 January 2020): https://www.textilmuseum.ch/modecircus/ Jean-Antoine Watteau, ‘Pierrot, formerly known as Gilles’ (c. 1718-19), Musée du Louvre, Paris: https://www.louvre.fr/en/oeuvre-notices/pierrot-formerly-known-gilles Playbill for The Great United Circus Alhambra Palace (1858), Victori

We talk about Josephine Baker’s performance in the 1935 film ‘Princesse Tam-Tam’ and the Steve McQueen’s 2020 TV series ‘Small Axe’, particularly the wonderful ‘Lovers Rock’ episode. See links below. Alan Parker (director), Kristi Zea (costume design), Fame (1980): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0080716/ Christopher Gore (creator), Nanrose Buchman, Marilyn Matthews and Ellen Mirojnick (costume designers on different episodes), Fame (1982-1987): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0083412/ Well, fame costs ....: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tze87LfeOtY Edmond T. Gréville (director), Gaston, Philippe and Zanel (costume design), Princesse Tam-Tam (1935): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0026891/ Exploring Josephine Baker, Autograph (23 October 2020): https://autograph.org.uk/events/exploring-josephine-baker George Cukor (director), Cecil Beaton and Michael Neuwirth (costume design), My Fair Lady (1964): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0058385/ Steve McQueen (director), Lisa Duncan, Jacqueline Durran and Sinéad K

We discuss Julien Duvivier’s marvellous 1930 film ‘Au Bonheur des Dames’ based on Émile Zola’s eponymous novel. See links below. Julien Duvivier (director), Gerlaur / Marthe Pinchaud (costume design), Au Bonheur des Dames (1930): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0020656/ Au Bonheur des Dames on Accroche Note: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pA5EqTkz84I Émile Zola, Au Bonheur des Dames (The Ladies’ Delight) (first published 1883): https://www.penguin.co.uk/books/35360/au-bonheur-des-dames--the-ladies--delight-/9780140447835.html Georg Simmel, ‘The Metropolis and Mental Life’ (1903) in Gary Bridge and Sophie Watson, eds. The Blackwell City Reader. Oxford and Malden, MA: Wiley-Blackwell (2002): http://www.esperdy.net/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/Simmel_21.pdf Patricia O’Brien, ‘The Kleptomania Diagnosis: Bourgeois Women and Theft in Late Nineteenth-Century France’, Journal of Social History, Vol. 17, No. 1 (Autumn 1983): https://www.jstor.org/stable/pdf/3787239.pdf Elaine S. Abelson, ‘The Invention of Klep

We discuss Gero von Boehm’s documentary ‘Helmut Newton: The Bad & the Beautiful’ (2020) and our own reactions to Newton’s controversial photographs. See links below. Gero von Boehm (director), Helmut Newton: The Bad and the Beautiful (2020): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt10370644/ Mila Ganeva, ‘Fashion Photography and Women’s Modernity in Weimar Germany: The Case of Yva’, NWSA Journal, Vol. 15, No. 3, Gender and Modernism between the Wars, 1918-1939 (Autumn 2003): https://www.jstor.org/stable/4317007?seq=1 Hannah Höch, Weltrevolution (1920), Metropolitan Museum of Art: https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/265169 Hans Bellmer at MoMA: https://www.moma.org/artists/452 Rebecca Arnold, ‘Fashion, Desire and Anxiety: Image and Morality in the Twentieth Century’, I.B. Tauris (2001): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/fashion-desire-and-anxiety-9780857718396/ Rebecca Arnold, ‘Fashion, Violence and Hyperreality’, in Glenn Adamson and Jane Pavitt (editors), Postmodernism: Style and Subversion, 1970-1990

We talk about John Lewis Curthoys' 1941 film ‘Border Weave’, produced by the British Council about the production of woollen textiles in the Scottish Borders, but also about empire, national identity and tradition versus modernity. See links below. Merel on Etsy: https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/mereltreasures MoMu Antwerp: https://www.momu.be/en/ British Council Film Archive: https://film.britishcouncil.org/resources/film-archive John Lewis Curthoys (director), Border Weave (1941): https://film.britishcouncil.org/resources/film-archive/border-weave John Lewis Curthoys and George Wynn (directors), Their Great Adventure (1948): http://collections-search.bfi.org.uk/web/Details/ChoiceFilmWorks/150057853 George Wynn: https://www.imdb.com/name/nm0943964/ Jack Cardiff: https://www.imdb.com/name/nm0002153/bio Joseph Todd Gordon Macleod: https://www.poetryfoundation.org/poets/joseph-gordon-macleod London Cloth Company: http://www.londoncloth.com/ David Parkinson, ‘Where to begin with Humphrey Jennings’

We talk about the fascinating exhibition ‘Michael Clark: Cosmic Dancer’ at the Barbican Art Gallery, London. See links below. Michael Clark: Cosmic Dancer, Barbican Art Gallery, London (7 October 2020-3 January 2021): https://www.barbican.org.uk/whats-on/2020/event/michael-clark-cosmic-dancer Sarah Crompton, Cosmic Dancer (2020): https://sites.barbican.org.uk/introducingmichaelclark/ Charles Atlas (director), Hail the New Puritan (1986): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0410057/ and http://www.eai.org/titles/hail-the-new-puritan Isabella Burley, Cult VIP: Rachel Auburn, Dazed Digital (5 February 2013): https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/15548/1/cult-vip-rachel-auburn Leigh Bowery on The Clothes Show (1988): https://youtu.be/om0MrCOXPcE Al Mulhall, Fashion Archive: Bodymap, Dazed (16 December 2009): https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/6120/1/fashion-archive-bodymap Kar-Wai Wong (director), William Chang (costume design), In the Mood for Love (2020): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt011

We talk about a conversation organised by Autograph and bimi, the Birkbeck Institute for the Moving Image, between Karen Alexander and Terri Simone Francis about her forthcoming book on Josephine Baker. See links below. Maurice Merleau-Ponty, Phenomenology of Perception (Routledge , first published 1945): https://www.routledge.com/Phenomenology-of-Perception/Merleau-Ponty/p/book/9780415834339 bimi, Birkbeck Institute for the Moving Image blog: http://blogs.bbk.ac.uk/bimi/about/ Autograph: Exploring Josephine Baker (23 October 2020): https://autograph.org.uk/events/exploring-josephine-baker Terri Simone Francis, Josephine Baker's Cinematic Prism (Indiana University Press 2021): https://iupress.org/9780253052179/josephine-bakers-cinematic-prism/ Joséphine Baker, Le sel de la semaine (18 mars 1968): https://ici.radio-canada.ca/info/videos/media-8114314/josephine-baker-au-sel-semaine Jack Mangan interviews Josephine Baker aboard the SS Liberté (3 October 1950): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zKO1YLXqx

We discuss Pan & the Dream magazine’s new ghostly issue and wonder about the significance of hands in understanding portraits. See links below. Dub London: Bassline of a City, Museum of London (to 31 January 2020): https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/museum-london/whats-on/exhibitions/dub-london Jilke Golbach, Dub Reggae Icons of London, Museum of London (29 July 2020): https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/discover/dub-reggae-icons-london Pan & the Dream: https://www.panandthedream.com/ Rebecca Arnold, ‘Drapery, Fashion, Ghosts’ and ‘Jake Wood-Evans: Between Two Worlds’, Pan &the Dream, Issue 4: Pan’s ghost Stories (2020): https://www.panandthedream.com/products/pans-ghost-stories-issue-4 M.R. James, ‘”Oh, Whistle, and I'll Come to You, My Lad”’, Ghost Stories of an Antiquary (1904): https://gutenberg.ca/ebooks/jamesmr-ohwhistle/jamesmr-ohwhistle-00-h.html Jake Wood-Evans: https://www.jakewoodevans.com/ Deborah Turbeville: https://www.instagram.com/deborah_turbeville/ Benoit Delhomme: https://www.in

We discuss the V&A’s ‘Kimono: From Kyoto to Catwalk’ exhibition and the varied meanings of this fascinating garment. See links below. Collina Strada: https://collinastrada.com/ Ian Kelly, Beau Brummell: The Ultimate Man of Style (2006): https://www.hodder.co.uk/titles/ian-kelly/beau-brummell/9780340836996/ Duro Olowu: https://www.duroolowu.com/ Arles – Les Rencontres de la Photographie: https://www.rencontres-arles.com/en Julien Faure: https://www.instagram.com/julienfaure1864/ Les choses de Paul Poiret / vues par Georges Lepape (1911): https://www.vmfa.museum/piction/108734640-160584885/ Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk, Victoria & Albert Museum (to 25 October 2020): https://www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/kimono-kyoto-to-catwalk Storey Studio (exhibition designers): https://www.storeystudio.com/project/va/kimono-kyoto-catwalk-exhibition Curator Tour led by Anna Jackson, Keeper of the Asian Department: https://youtu.be/oEf0iFNTVGw https://youtu.be/hG6UVZexmc8 https://youtu.be/dvyC_pqYhvw https://youtu.b

We discuss the Wide Awakes - their origins as an Abolitionist movement supporting Lincoln’s 1860 election campaign, and their revival in 2020 as a cape-clad artist network that believes in “joy as resistance “. See links below. Ruth Barnes, Joanne B. Eicher, Dress and Gender: Making and Meaning (first published in 1992): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/dress-and-gender-9780854968657/ Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk, V&A, London (to 25 October 2020): https://www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/kimono-kyoto-to-catwalk Jessica Mitford, Hons and Rebels (first published in 1960): https://www.weidenfeldandnicolson.co.uk/titles/jessica-mitford/hons-and-rebels/9781474605373/ Nancy Mitford, Love in a Cold Climate (first published in 1949): https://www.penguin.co.uk/books/282/2828/love-in-a-cold-climate/9780241974698.html Gerda Taro: https://www.icp.org/browse/archive/objects/militiawoman-training-on-the-beach-near-barcelona and https://www.icp.org/browse/archive/constituents/gerda-taro?all/all/all/all/0 Jon Grinspan, ‘”Young

We discuss Rihanna’s approach to lingerie and the amazing choreography and body positivity on display at the Savage x Fenty vol. 2 show. See links below. Gucci’s Rock Star Live campaign: https://www.gucci.com/uk/en_gb/st/stories/advertising-campaign/article/fall-winter-2020-gucci-tailoring-shoppable Biggy Pop: https://www.instagram.com/biggypop/ Britta Lokting, ‘The Pied Piper of Parrots’, New York Times (17 January 2018): https://www.nytimes.com/2018/01/17/nyregion/pet-parrot-trainer.html Savage X Fenty Show: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Savage-X-Fenty-Show/dp/B07XFK153C https://www.instagram.com/savagexfenty/ Tom Huddleston, ‘Where to begin with Busby Berkeley’, BFI (28 October 2019): https://www2.bfi.org.uk/news-opinion/news-bfi/features/where-begin-busby-berkeley

We talk about the preview event of the online conference Fashion at the Periphery organised by the Chicago Fashion Lyceum where Paul & Kayla Owen and Amanda Harth talked about streetwear in Liverpool and Chicago, respectively. See links below. Otto Preminger (director), Hope Bryce and May Walding (costume), Bonjour Tristesse (1958): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0051429/ Chicago Fashion Lyceum: https://chicagofashionlyceum.com/ Fashion at the Periphery 2020: https://chicagofashionlyceum.com/schedule/ Paul & Kayla Owen: owenstudio.co.uk Sole Magazine: https://www.instagram.com/sole_magazine/ Laura Davis, ‘Adidas unveils Kirkdale trainers at Laces Out! festival’, Liverpool Echo (11 September 2015): https://www.liverpoolecho.co.uk/whats-on/whats-on-news/adidas-unveils-kirkdale-trainers-laces-10034994 Runwayaddicts: https://www.runwayaddicts.co/ Matt Harvey, ‘The Museum of Streetwear enshrines young Chicago designers (for a weekend)’, Chicago Reader (24 July 2019): https://www.chicagoreader.com/chica

We talk about two pioneering women: the first female filmmaker Alice Guy-Blaché and the writer, broadcaster, collector, costume designer, dress historian and curator Doris Langley Moore. See links below. Pamela B. Green (director), Be Natural: The Untold Story of Alice Guy-Blaché (2018): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt3146022/ Marquise Lepage (director), Le Jardin oublié: La vie et l’oeuvre d’Alice Guy Blaché (1996): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0113692/ and https://youtu.be/zli0mysaUeU René Boca, ‘Nouvelles Brèves de la Cité: Alice Guy-Blaché, la 1re femme metteur en scene’, La Cité (Paris 1954): https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k9783739x/f25.image Men, Women and Clothes (1957): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt1375606/ and https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b00gp19b (sadly currently not available on this platform) Men, Women and Clothes (1957) on YouTube: https://youtu.be/6NA_opCjczE - How Fashions Come and Go https://youtu.be/_n-BgDm55Uk – Sense and Nonsense in Fashion https://youtu.be/qbG33X2j1L0 - F

Sparked off by a 1975 book about the dress collection then at Castle Howard, we talk about dressing up in historic clothes and the difficulties with trying to recreate the past. See links below. Present & Correct, Desk trolley: https://www.presentandcorrect.com/products/oak-desk-trolley Naruhito (photographer), Costume at Castle Howard (Castle Howard Estate, 1975): https://www.worldcat.org/title/costume-at-castle-howard/oclc/2543171/editions Castle Howard, Sale, Sotheby’s (7 October 2003): https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2003/castle-howard-w03843/lot.1.html The Gallery of English Costume: Picture Books (1949-1977): https://tinyurl.com/yxd85mqu Cecil Smith, Guide to the English Costumes Presented by Messrs. Harrods Ltd (V&A 1913): https://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=uc1.b000993584&view=1up&seq=7 Christina Broom, The Historical Pageant of the Women's Coronation Procession (17 June 1911): https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/437264.html, also: https://collections.