Bande À Part

We discuss the new exhibition at the Fashion Space Gallery at London College of Fashion, Mundo Latinx, curated by White Line Projects. See links below. Fashion Space Gallery, London College of Fashion, Mundo Latinx (8 Feb to 5 May 2019): http://www.fashionspacegallery.com/exhibition/mundo-latinx/ White Line Projects: http://www.whitelineprojects.com/ Lucia Cuba (official website): http://www.luciacuba.com/ Ada Alti, ‘Articulo 6 Project by Lucia Cuba’ Trendland (10/03/2013): https://trendland.com/articulo-6-project-by-lucia-cuba/ Lucia Cuba (interviewer) and Mauricio Delfin (video), ‘We have woken up’, interview with Aurelia Paccohuanca and Micaela Flores (January 2012): https://vimeo.com/42281777 Lucia Cuba and Eduardo Delgado (camera & edition), Articulo 6 (2013): https://vimeo.com/41995578 Ciudadaniasx, Proyecto Artículo 6 de Lucia Cuba (2013): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ANAVwIKFfyk Lauren Cocking, ‘Photography as Catharsis: An interview with Chiapan photographer Diego Moreno’, The Cult

We wonder about the allure of pleats, the history of pleating, and our favourite designer examples of pleats. See links below. Vogue, Sacai, Resort 2019: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2019/sacai/slideshow/collection#34 Lassner Plissee, History of Plissee (in German): http://lassner-plissee.de/Geschichte/geschichte.html Business of Fashion, 'Inside Chanel's Subsidiary, Lognon, Pleater' (2015): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h_GU0uOgNrc Refinery29, 'How a Dior Dress is Made' (2015): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FT1Fc92-eFY The Hunt Museum, Sybil Connolly, online exhibition (2018): http://www.huntmuseum.com/explore-the-exhibition/ Elizabeth Kutesko, 'How Can We Decolonise Fashion History? A Case Study: the Guarani-Kaiowá, Mato Grosso do Sul, Brazil', Research Forum, Courtauld Institute (8/2/2019): https://courtauld.ac.uk/event/how-can-we-decolonise-fashion-history-a-case-study-the-guarani-kaiowa-mato-grosso-do-sul-brazil Elizabeth Kutesko, 'Fashioning Brazil Globalization and the Represe

We discuss the recent sale of Catherine Deneuve’s Yves Saint Laurent clothes, and wonder about the values and meanings attached to vintage fashions. See links below ... Catherine Deneuve et Yves Saint-Laurent [sic], Christie's, Sale 17514, 24 January 2019, results: https://www.christies.com/catherine-deneuve-et-yves-28219.aspx Jess Cartner-Morley, 'Catherine Deneuve is selling her Yves Saint Laurent wardrobe - but that look will never go away', The Guardian (15 January 2019): https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2019/jan/15/catherine-deneuve-is-selling-her-yves-saint-laurent-wardrobe-but-that-look-will-never-go-away AnOther, 'Catherine Deneuve Sells $1 Million Worth of Yves Saint Laurent Couture' (25 January 2019): https://www.anothermag.com/fashion-beauty/11444/catherine-deneuve-sells-1-million-worth-of-yves-saint-laurent-couture Rencontres Couture à Paris de la Collection Didier Ludo, Sotheby's, Sale PF1570, 8 July 2015, results: http://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/2015/collection-didier-ludot-pf1570.htm

We discuss the current Yves Saint Laurent exhibition in Paris and the representation of Eastern cultures in fashion, and consider the extravagant vision of Busby Berkeley films from the 1930s. See links below ... Les Nadar, une légende photographique, Bibliothèque Nationale de France, Paris (16 October 2018 - 3 February 2019): http://www.bnf.fr/m/fr/m_actualites/m_anx_expos/f.nadar_legende_photographique.html L'Asie rêvée d'Yves Saint Laurent, Musée Yves Saint Laurent, Paris (2 October 2018 - 27 January 2019): https://museeyslparis.com/expositions/asie-revee-yves-saint-laurent Mélody Thomas, ‘Expo: Ce que l’Asie Rêvée d’Yves Saint Laurent nous dit de la mode actuelle’, Marie Claire (14 October 2018): https://www.marieclaire.fr/exposition-l-asie-revee-d-yves-saint-laurent,1284384.asp Susie Lau, ‘Saint Laurent’s Dreams of the Orient: “When you know a culture, you can’t make mistakes’, The Guardian (2 October 2018): https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2018/oct/02/saint-laurents-dreams-of-the-orient-when-y

We discuss the delights and dilemmas of layers, and question why some designers are better remembered than others. See information and links below. Hardy Amies, Just So Far (Collins 1954) Hardy Amies, ABC of Men’s Fashion (V&A 2008, first published in 1964): https://www.vam.ac.uk/shop/abc-of-men-s-fashion-94479.html Hardy Amies, Still Here: An Autobiography (Weidenfeld and Nicolson 1984) Hardy Amies, The Englishman’s Suit (Quartet Books 2013, first published in 1994): https://www.quartetbooks.co.uk/shop/the-englishmans-suit/ Ossie Clark and Lady Henrietta Rous (ed), The Ossie Clark Diaries (Bloomsbury 1998) Norman Hartnell, Silver and Gold (Pitman 1956) Norman Hartnell, Royal Courts of Fashion (Littlehampton 1971) Victor Stiebel, South African Childhood (HarperCollins 1968) Edwina Ehrman & Amy de la Haye, London Couture: British Luxury 1923-1975 (V&A 2015): https://www.vam.ac.uk/shop/london-couture-british-luxury-1923-1975-131549.html Neville Jacobs in Balenciaga: https://www.instagram.com/p/BrVcI

We discuss the power of costume in Powell & Pressburger’s 1947 film Black Narcissus and the amazing silent film actress Asta Nielsen. Michael Powell, Emeric Pressburger (directors), Black Narcissus (1947): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0039192/ Reviews of Black Narcissus: http://www.powell-pressburger.org/Reviews/47_BN/index.html Asta Nielsen, Die schweigende Muse (Wilhelm Heyne Verlag, 1979, first published 1945/46) Asta Nielsen's page on Women Film Pioneers Project: https://wfpp.cdrs.columbia.edu/pioneer/asta-nielsen-2/ Urban Gad (director), Afgrunden (1910), dance scene: https://youtu.be/criEcLXgUQ0 Urban Gad (director), Die Suffragette (1913): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0132536 Asta Nielsen Flickr Album, Danish Film Institute / The Film Museum: https://www.flickr.com/photos/36461985@N08/albums/72157630867865856

We discuss the wonderful Atelier E.B: Passer-by exhibition at the Serpentine Gallery, and wonder about the ethics of using people’s fashion choices for targeting political propaganda. See links below. Atelier E.B: Passer-by at Serpentine Gallery (2018-19): https://www.serpentinegalleries.org/exhibitions-events/atelier-eb-passer Atelier E.B: Passer-by exhibition guide (2018): https://www.serpentinegalleries.org/files/downloads/1636.serp_atelier_e.b_guide_aw_no_crops.pdf Eric Newton, 'First surrealist art exhibition in England - archive, 1936', The Guardian (12/06/2018, originally 12/06/1938): https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2018/jun/12/first-surrealist-art-exhibition-in-england-archive-1936 RA Collections Team, 'How to read it: Meredith Frampton’s Still Life' (17/02/2017): https://www.royalacademy.org.uk/article/how-to-read-it-meredith-frampton Marguerite V. Hodge, 'Enigmatic Bodies: Dolls and the Making of Japanese Modernity', Nineteenth-century art worldwide, vol. 12, issue 1 (spring 2013):

We talk about Jessie Redmon Fauset's 1928 novel Plum Bun and the affinities between the sense of taste and fashion and beauty. See links below. Jessie Redmon Fauset, Plum Bun (1928): http://www.beacon.org/Plum-Bun-P136.aspx Jacquelyn Y. Mclendon, The Politics of Color in the Fiction of Jessie Fauset and Nella Larsen (1995): https://www.upress.virginia.edu/title/2892 Smithsonian, The Scurlocks and Black Washington (2009): https://www.smithsonianmag.com/videos/category/history/the-scurlocks-and-black-washington/ Douglas Sirk, Imitation of Life (1959): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0052918/ Sofia Coppola, Marie Antoinette (2006): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0422720 Rebecca Arnold, '‘The New Rococo: Sofia Coppola And Fashions In Contemporary Femininity’, in Katie Scott and Melissa Hyde, Rococo echo: art, history and historiography from Cochin to Coppola (2014): http://blog.courtauld.ac.uk/documentingfashion/files/2015/09/Rebecca-Arnold-New-Rococo-from-Rococo-Echoes.pdf Raymond Meier photographs for Harper'

We discuss artist Ellen Nolan’s fascinating archive of her great aunt Nita Harvey’s stage and film career. See links below. Nita Harvey Archive page on Ellen Nolan's website: http://www.ellennolan.com/Art/nita/nita.html Ellen Nolan's blog which contains many Nita Harvey images: http://www.ellennolan.com/wp/ 'A Beautiful Dream That Went for a Walk', Voice (2 June 1934): https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/218834069 Nita Harvey on IMDb: https://www.imdb.com/name/nm0367663/ You Must Remember This podcast: http://www.youmustrememberthispodcast.com/ Richard Dyer, Stars (1998): http://www.worldcat.org/title/stars/oclc/39370252 Fancy Dress on Screen Archive South East: http://screenarchive.brighton.ac.uk/portfolio/screen-search-fashion/leisure/fancy-dress/

We discuss the ways fashion and autobiography intersect - prompted by a visit to see clothes in the Museum of London archive. See links below. Edwina Ehrman and Amy de la Haye (eds), London Couture: British Luxury 1923-1975 (2015): https://www.vam.ac.uk/shop/london-couture-british-luxury-1923-1975-131549.html (article on couture clients features Lady Fox and Lady Delamere) Photos of Myra Alice (née Newton), Lady Fox at NPG: https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/person/mp91931/myra-alice-nee-newton-lady-fox Lady Fox's skating outfit at Museum of London: https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/discover/ice-skating-fashion-craze James Fox, White Mischief (1998, first published 1982): https://www.penguin.co.uk/books/103/1034644/white-mischief/9780099766711.html Michael Radford, White Mischief (1988): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0094317/ Lisa Cohen, “Frock Consciousness”: Virginia Woolf, the Open Secret, and the Language of Fashion, Fashion Theory, Vol. 3, Issue 2 (1999): https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/1

We discuss the ways clothes feel versus the way they look, and Autograph’s brilliant Omar Victor Diop exhibition. See links below. Fanshawe mantua at Museum of London (1753): https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/85096.html Lynn Sorge-English, Stays and Body Image in London: The Staymaking Trade, 1680-1810 (2011): https://www.routledge.com/Stays-and-Body-Image-in-London-The-Staymaking-Trade-16801810/Sorge-English/p/book/9781138661424 Daniel Miller, Mukulika Banerjee, The Sari (2008): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/the-sari-9781847883148/ Honoré-Victorin Daumier, De l'utilité de la crinoline pour frauder l'octroi (1857), Art Institute of Chicago: https://www.artic.edu/artworks/84651 Omar Victor Diop at Autograph (2018): https://autograph.org.uk/exhibitions/liberty-diaspora Omar Victor Diop website: https://www.omarviktor.com/ Omar Victor Diop interviewed for Paris Photo (2016): https://vimeo.com/190321094 Omar Victor Diop at Design Indaba (2017): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=auWl6z7

We discuss the mesmerising exhibition of Frances Upritchard’s work at the Barbican, and enjoy the multi-layered references in Simon Grennan’s book Drawing in Drag by Marie Duval. See links below. Francis Upritchard: Wetwang Slack (2018): http://sites.barbican.org.uk/wetwangslack/ Francis Upritchard at Kate Macgarry: http://www.katemacgarry.com/artists/francis-upritchard/ Hammer Projects: Francis Upritchard (2014-2015): https://hammer.ucla.edu/exhibitions/2014/hammer-projects-francis-upritchard/ Mackenzie Stevens, An “Unruly Material: Balata in Francis Upritchard’s Practice (2014): https://hammer.ucla.edu/blog/2014/12/an-unruly-material-balata-in-francis-upritchards-practice/ Tessa Giblin, The Borrowings of Francis Upritchard (2017): https://christchurchartgallery.org.nz/bulletin/187/the-borrowings-of-francis-upritchard In Conversation: Peter Pilotto (2016): https://www.matchesfashion.com/womens/the-style-report/2016/11/the-statement-issue/in-conversation-peter-pilotto-amex-francis-upritchard-collab

We discuss two exhibitions that opened in London this week: Anni Albers at Tate Modern and Night & Day: 1930s Fashion and Photographs at the Fashion & Textile Museum. See links below. Anni Albers, Tate Modern, London: https://www.tate.org.uk/whats-on/tate-modern/exhibition/anni-albers Stiftelsen Almgrens Sidenväveri & Museum, Stockholm: http://www.kasiden.se/english-summary/ Paridise Mill and The Silk Museum, Macclesfield: https://macclesfieldmuseums.co.uk/ Night & Day: 1930s Fashion and Photographs, Fashion & Textile Museum, London: https://www.ftmlondon.org/

We consider the wonders of menswear prompted by Murnau's 1921 film Schloss Vogelöd and discuss the V&A Museum’s current Frida Kahlo exhibition. See links below. Fritz Murnau (director), Schloss Vogelöd (1921): https://www.murnau-stiftung.de/movie/812 Antony Beevor, The Mystery of Olga Chekhova (2005): https://www.penguin.co.uk/books/54988/the-mystery-of-olga-chekhova/9780141017648.html Roberta S. Kremer (ed), Broken Threads: The Destruction of the Jewish Fashion Industry in Germany and Austria (2006): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/broken-threads-9781845206604/ Frida Kahlo exhibition, V&A (2018): https://www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/frida-kahlo-making-her-self-up Museo Frida Kahlo, Mexico: http://www.museofridakahlo.org.mx/en/the-blue-house/ Appearances Can Be Deceiving: The Dresses of Friday Kahlo, Friday Kahlo Museum, Mexico City (2012 – 2013): https://judithclarkcostume.com/exhibitions/appearances-can-be-deceiving-the-dresses-of-frida-kahlo/ Appearances Can Be Deceiving: The Dresses of Friday Kahlo

We devise the Bande à part Manifesto of acceptable approaches to fashion design based on our observations of the current collections. See links below. Chromat Spring 2019 RTW on Vogue Runway: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/chromat#collection Pyer Moss: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/pyer-moss#collection Derrick Adams: http://www.derrickadams.com/ Matty Bovan: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/matty-bovan#collection Dries Van Noten: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/dries-van-noten#collection Marc Jacobs: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/marc-jacobs#collection Dice Kayek: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/dice-kayek#collection

We discuss the hidden diversity of interwar London and the wonders of Art Smith’s Modernist jewellery. See also links below. Evelyn Waugh, Vile Bodies (1930): https://www.penguin.co.uk/books/57050/vile-bodies/9780141182872.html Marc Matera, Black London: The Imperial Metropolis and Decolonization in the Twentieth Century (2015): https://www.ucpress.edu/book/9780520284302/black-london Black Chronicles (NPG/ABP project 2016): https://www.npg.org.uk/whatson/blackchronicles/explore/autograph-abp Christopher Reed, 'A Vogue That Dare Not Speak its Name: Sexual Subculture During the Editorship of Dorothy Todd, 1922–26', Fashion Theory (2006): https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.2752/136270406778050996 Patrick Elliott and Sacha Llewellyn, 'True to Life: British Realist Painting in the 1920s & 1930s' (2017): https://www.nationalgalleries.org/shop/all-books/national-galleries-scotland-books/true-life-british-realist-painting-1920s-1930s-exhibition-book Hearts magazine: http://heartsmagazine.net/ Art Smith @

We discuss the Kevyn Aucoin documentary and various makeup styles we’d like to try. Plus, why are there so many documentaries now? Links to some of what we talk about below. Lori Kaye, Kevyn Aucoin: Beauty & the Beast in Me (2017): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt6972670/ Lottie Winter on Kevyn Aucoin (2017): https://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/who-is-kevyn-aucoin-everything-you-need-to-know Way Bandy: https://www.nytimes.com/1986/08/15/obituaries/way-bandy-makeup-artist-and-best-selling-writer-dies.html Visage, Fade to Grey (1982): https://youtu.be/UMPC8QJF6sI David Bowie, Ashes to Ashes (1980): https://youtu.be/CMThz7eQ6K0 Sandy Linter, Disco Beauty (1979): http://sparklearmy.com/blog/?p=287 Jennifer Lopez, Waiting For Tonight (1999): https://youtu.be/_66jPJVS4JE

We talk about the appeal of buying clothes from catalogues. See links below. Marshall & Snelgrove catalogue, 'The Visits of Veronica' (1929): http://www.20thcenturylondon.org.uk/mol-77-150-39 Kays catalogues: https://www.worc.ac.uk/discover/world-of-kays-website-charts-20th-century-fashions%20.html

We discuss the significance of costume in Otto Preminger’s film Bonjour Tristesse (1958). See also links below. François Sagan, Bonjour Tristesse (1954): http://www.francoisesagan.fr/4.aspx Otto Preminger, Bonjour Tristesse (1958): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0051429/ Saul Bass title sequence: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=VyfxT7CzB94 Photos by Lionel Kazan taken during the filming: https://en.vogue.fr/fashion-culture/fashion-books/diaporama/lionel-kazan-remembers-the-filming-of-bonjour-tristesse/34055

We discuss department stores we have known and loved. Kaufhaus Weyrauch: https://www.kaufhaus-weyrauch.de/historie/ Morleys Brixton Department Store: https://www.morleysbrixton.co.uk/about-morleys/ Bon Marché Department Store Brixton: https://thedepartmentstore.com/history/ Rebecca Arnold, The American Look: Fashion and the Image of Women in 1930's and 1940's New York (2008): https://tinyurl.com/y83uz547 Emile Zola, The Ladies' Paradise (1883): https://global.oup.com/academic/product/the-ladies-paradise-9780199536900 John Guillermin (director), The Crowded Day (1954): http://www.screenonline.org.uk/film/id/1408156/index.html William Wyler (director), Mrs Miniver (1942): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0035093/