Bande À Part

We had to take a little break this week so are offering a repost of our musings about the allure of pleats, the history of pleating, and our favourite designer examples of pleats. See links below. Please check out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast Vogue, Sacai, Resort 2019: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2019/sacai/slideshow/collection#34 Lassner Plissee, History of Plissee (in German): http://lassner-plissee.de/Geschichte/geschichte.html Business of Fashion, 'Inside Chanel's Subsidiary, Lognon, Pleater' (2015): www.youtube.com/watch?v=h_GU0uOgNrc Refinery29, 'How a Dior Dress is Made' (2015): www.youtube.com/watch?v=FT1Fc92-eFY The Hunt Museum, Sybil Connolly, online exhibition (2018): www.huntmuseum.com/explore-the-exhibition/ Elizabeth Kutesko, 'How Can We Decolonise Fashion History? A Case Study: the Guarani-Kaiowá, Mato Grosso do Sul, Brazil', Research Forum, Courtauld Institute (8/2/2019): https://courtauld.ac.uk/whats-on/how-can-we-decolonise-fashion-hi

We talk about an inspiring discussion between Priya Ahluwalia, Es Devlin and Gaika, chaired by Daze Aghaji about ‘creativity in a time of crisis’. See links below. Please check out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast ‘Imagining the Impossible: Creativity in a time of Crisis’, Barbican (16 June 2022): https://www.barbican.org.uk/whats-on/2022/event/imagining-the-impossible-creativity-in-a-time-of-crisis Our Time on Earth, The Curve, Barbican (5 May - 29 Aug 2022): https://www.barbican.org.uk/whats-on/2022/event/our-time-on-earth https://ahluwalia.world/ https://esdevlin.com/ https://gaika.warp.net/ https://www.instagram.com/dazeaghaji

We discuss Jean Harlow’s amazing star persona, as seen in ‘Platinum Blonde’ and ‘Dinner at Eight’. See links below. We’d love you to support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast Frank Capra (director), Edward Stevenson (costume design), ‘Platinum Blonde’ (1931): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0022268/ George Cukor (director), Adrian (gowns), ‘Dinner at Eight’ (1933): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0023948/ Robert Mack (director), ‘Come to Dinner’ (1934) https://www.dailymotion.com/video/x7p71yv Richard Dyer, ‘White’ (2017, first published 1997): https://www.routledge.com/White-Twentieth-Anniversary-Edition/Dyer/p/book/9781138683044# George Hurrell, Jean Harlow (1934): https://lagunaartmuseum.org/artwork/jean-harlow/ Brassaï (Gyula Halász), La Môme Bijou, Bar de la Lune, Montmartre (1932) : https://www.moma.org/collection/works/58840 RuPaul’s Drag Race’s 28 Days of Drag: 2/2 Snatch Game Sunday (2014): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LMA5MHvA3zA

We catch up with all that’s been happening - and discuss Ukrainian milliner Ruslan Baginskiy and Elizabeth Wilson’s new book 'Unfolding the Past'. See links below. We’d love you to support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast Unravelling Threads: Tracing and Transforming Violence and Trauma through Fashion, Conference, The Courtauld Institute / LCF (6-7 May 2022): https://courtauld.ac.uk/whats-on/unravelling-threads-tracing-and-transforming-violence-and-trauma-though-fashion/ Documenting Fashion Blog: https://sites.courtauld.ac.uk/documentingfashion/ Ruslan Blaginsky: https://www.instagram.com/ruslanbaginskiy_hats/ and https://ruslanbaginskiy.com/ Elizabeth Wilson, ‘Unfolding the Past’, Bloomsbury (2022): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/unfolding-the-past-9781350232617/ ‘Dressed: 7 Women – 200 Years of Fashion’, MK&G, Hamburg (25 February – 28 August 2022): https://www.mkg-hamburg.de/en/exhibitions/dressed Charlie Porter,’What Artists Wear’, Penguin (2021): https://www.penguin.c

In our season finale we discuss Ralph Lauren’s special edition Polo collection conceived in collaboration with Spelman and Morehouse colleges, and play another round of our favourite game 'If I was a …', this time focused on fashion illustration. New season premiere: 22 May. See links below. Robin Givhan, ‘The Battle of Versailles’ (2015): https://us.macmillan.com/books/9781250052902/thebattleofversailles Robin Givhan, ‘Ralph Lauren revises his vision of the American Dream, inspired by the style of HBCUs’, The Washington Post (15 March 2022): https://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/2022/03/15/ralph-lauren-morehouse-spelman-hbcu/ The Crisis, Modernist Journals Project: https://modjourn.org/journal/crisis/ https://www.instagram.com/anfeargorm4/ Bea Feitler after Joe Eula, ‘Lauren Bacall and the Boys’, 1968: https://www.si.edu/object/lauren-bacall-and-boys%3Anpg_NPG.2007.161 Francesca Gavin, ‘The Pioneering Female Art Director You've Never Heard Of’, AnOther (8 September 2017): https://www.anothermag

We talk about the joys of archival research and marvel at Mervyn Le Roy’s Depression-era musical ‘Gold Diggers of 1933’. Westminster Archives: https://www.westminster.gov.uk/leisure-libraries-and-community/westminster-archives Historical Directories of England and Wales: http://specialcollections.le.ac.uk/digital/collection/p16445coll4 and http://specialcollections.le.ac.uk/digital/collection/p16445coll4/custom/background Gaston and Andrée Exerciser: http://www.kraveantiques.co.uk/products/Gaston-Andree-Exerciser-1897.html Rogue Fitness, ‘The Rogue Legends Series – Chapter 1: Eugen Sandow / 8K’ (25 May 2017): https://youtu.be/S-nPD2__e0E Mervyn LeRoy (director), Orry-Kelly (gowns), ‘Gold Diggers of 1933’ (1933): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0024069/ Orry-Kelly, ‘Women I’ve Undressed: The Fabulous Life and Times of a Legendary Hollywood Designer’, Allen & Unwin (2016): https://atlantic-books.co.uk/book/women-ive-undressed/ Mordaunt Hall, ‘Warren William, Aline MacMahon and Guy Kibbee in a Musical

Beatrice takes Rebecca through every stage necessary in turning an item of clothing into a museum object. See links below. https://www.rotring.com/ Emily Spivack, ‘A History of Sequins from King Tut to the King of Pop’, Smithsonian Magazine (28 December 2012): https://www.smithsonianmag.com/arts-culture/a-history-of-sequins-from-king-tut-to-the-king-of-pop-8035/ Collections Trust, ‘Spectrum-related resources’: https://collectionstrust.org.uk/spectrum-resources/ Collections Trust ‘Standards in the museum care of costume and textile collections’: https://collectionstrust.org.uk/resource/standards-in-the-museum-care-of-costume-and-textile-collections/ Western Australian Museum, ‘Freezing Objects’ (30 June 2017): https://youtu.be/JSFmC6-K5nA Museum of London, ‘How to Store a Wedding Dress’ (16 September 2013): https://youtu.be/eHcQug5ZJd4

While we take a little mid season break let’s revisit our 100th episode about the fabulous clothes and make-up in Powell and Pressburger’s 1948 film ‘The Red Shoes’. See links below. Michael Powell and Emeric Pressburger (directors), Hein Heckroth (costume design), The Red Shoes (1948): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0040725/ Wardrobe and dresses of Ludmilla Tchérina: Dorothy Edwards Additional dresses for Ludmilla Tchérina: Carven Dresses for Moira Shearer: Jacques Fath and Mattli Make-up artists: George Blackler, Eric Carter, Ernest Gasser Michael Powell, A Life in Movies: An Autobiography (1986): http://www.powell-pressburger.org/Reviews/Micky/ALIM.html Hein Heckroth: Film Designer, Deutsches Film Institut, Filmmuseum, Berlin (28 March – 25 August 1991): https://www.dff.film/ausstellung/hein-heckroth-film-designer/ and http://www.shop-filmmuseum.de/Katalog-Hein-Heckroth-Film-Designer Villa Léopolda: https://www.pop.culture.gouv.fr/notice/memoire/APGLT03800 Matthew Bourne, The Red Shoes: https://new-adv

We talk about the fabulous Gladys Perint Palmer whose fashion drawings were shown in an exhibition curated by Gray MCA. See links below. ‘A fine Line in Fashion: The Art of Gladys Perint Palmer’, Gray MCA, Cromwell Place, London (15-20 February 2022): https://graymca.com/ Gray MCA, ‘In the Studio with Gladys Perint Palmer’ (11 September 2021): https://vimeo.com/602673726 Gladys Perint Palmer: https://gladysperintpalmer.com/ Paris in Love (2021): https://youtu.be/CUS8XatG1HY The Courtauld, Prints and Drawings: https://courtauld.ac.uk/gallery/the-collection/prints-and-drawings/ Charles Baudelaire, ‘The Painter of Modern Life’ (originally published in 1863): https://www.poetryintranslation.com/PITBR/French/BaudelaireThePainterOfModernLife.php

We talk about the powerful and moving Second World War and Holocaust Galleries at the Imperial War Museum. See links below. Imperial War Museum, London: https://www.iwm.org.uk/visits/iwm-london Second World War Galleries: https://www.iwm.org.uk/events/second-world-war-galleries The Holocaust Galleries: https://www.iwm.org.uk/events/the-holocaust-galleries https://www.iwm.org.uk/support-us/donations/second-world-war-and-holocaust-galleries Jonathan Freedland, ‘Imperial War Museum Holocaust Galleries review – history’s greatest horror’, The Guardian (11 October 2021): https://www.theguardian.com/culture/2021/oct/11/imperial-war-museum-london-holocaust-gallery-review ‘The Holocaust Galleries - Imperial War Museum, London’, Casson Mann (2021): https://www.cassonmann.com/projects/holocaust-galleries Vikki Hawkins, ‘Displaying marginalised and “hidden” histories at the Imperial War Museum London: The Second World War gallery regeneration project’, War & Society, Volume 39, Issue 3 (2020): https://doi.org/1

We talk about Nadya Wang’s brilliant analysis of the work of photographer Yip Cheong Fun and the amazing style of Cab Calloway and the Nicholas Brothers. See links below. Nadya Wang, ‘Framing the Body: Yip Cheong Fun and Singapore Photography in the 1960s and 1970s’, part of ‘Addressing Images, The Courtauld (28 January 2022): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0grnWoBZXok Fred Waller (director), Cab Calloway’s Hi-De-Ho (1933): https://www.parkcircus.com/film/109262-Cab-Calloway's-Hi-De-Ho and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=spBLdH5mtyk Fred Waller (director), Jitterbug Party (1934): https://www.parkcircus.com/film/109355-Jitterbug-Party and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mMQVZYoNWIw Billy Wilder (director), Some Like It Hot (1959): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0053291/ Andrew L. Stone (director), Helen Rose (costume design), Stormy Weather (1943): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0036391/ Clip from Stormy Weather (1943): https://cabcallowayfoundation.org/cab-calloway-bill-robinson-nicholas-brothers-sto

We talk about London’s Fashion & Textile Museum’s exhibition: ‘Beautiful People: The Boutique in 1960s Counterculture’. See links below. Don’t forget to check out Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast The Courtauld Gallery, London: https://courtauld.ac.uk/gallery/ ‘Beautiful People: The Boutique in 1960s Counterculture’, Fashion & Textile Museum, London (1 October 2021 - 13 March 2022): https://fashiontextilemuseum.org/exhibitions/beautiful-people-the-boutique-in-1960s-counterculture Mark Butterfield, ‘Granny Takes A Trip, Golden Lily Jacket, 1966’, C20 Vintage Fashion (20 September 2020): https://www.c20vintagefashion.co.uk/post/granny-takes-a-trip-golden-lily-jacket-1966 and other posts: https://www.c20vintagefashion.co.uk/blog The Peter Feely Experience, Perfumed Garden Productions, YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCDZKLKwxbpv1vc9lfBO0kAw/featured Malcolm Hall: http://malcolmhall.london/gallery/#category_id_48 Paul Reeves: https://www.instagram.com/paul_reeves_london/

We talk about Lucy Moyse Ferreira’s fascinating, recently launched book ‘Danger in the Path of Chic: Violence in Fashion between the Wars’. See links below. Don’t forget to check out Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast Robin Givhan, ‘André Leon Talley became an icon by never losing faith in the glory of fashion’, Washington Post (19 January 2022): https://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/2022/01/19/andre-leon-talley-appreciation/ André Leon Talley, ‘A.L.T.: A Memoir’ (Villlard 2003) André Leon Talley, ‘The Chiffon Trenches: A Memoir’, read by ATM (Penguin Random House 2020): https://www.penguinrandomhouseaudio.com/book/609773/the-chiffon-trenches/ ‘Helen Levitt: In the Street’, The Photographers’ Gallery, London (15 October 2021 – 13 February 2022): https://thephotographersgallery.org.uk/whats-on/helen-levitt-retrospective Lucy Moyse Ferreira, ‘Danger in the Path of Chic: Violence in Fashion between the Wars’ (Bloomsbury Publishing 2021): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/danger-in-the

We delve into Jacques Demy’s weird, psychedelic fairy story ‘Peau d’âne’ (1970) and wonder about its many meanings. See links below. Don’t forget to check out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast Jacques Demy (director), Agostino Pace (costume design), Gitt Magrini (costume realisation), Peau d’âne (1970): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0066207/ Charles Perrault, ‘Donkey Skin’, from: Charles Perrault, ‘Old-Time Stories told by Master Charles Perrault’, translated by A. E. Johnson, New York: Dodd Mead and Company (1921): https://sites.pitt.edu/~dash/perrault11.html Charles Perrault, ‘Contes des fees ...’ (1817): https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k6214877h/f181.item and https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k6214877h/f206.item Célia Bellache, ‘Les costumes et décors de Peau d’Âne de Jacques Demy’, Florilèges (2 January 2021): https://florilegeswebjournal.com/2021/01/02/les-costumes-et-decors-de-peau-dane-de-jacques-demy/ Rodney Hill, ‘Donkey Skin (Peau d’âne)’, Film Quarterly,

We discuss our beloved Jean Paul Gaultier’s obsession with the 1945 film ‘Falbalas’ and why it led him into fashion design. See links below. Don’t forget to check out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast The Courtauld Gallery: https://courtauld.ac.uk/gallery/ Mitchell Leisen (director), Travis Banton (costumes), 'Hands Across the Table' (1935): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0026452/ ‘Dialogue avec Jean Paul Gaultier’, Cinémathèque Française (6 October 2021 – 16 January 2022): https://www.cinematheque.fr/video/1711.html Jean Paul Gaultier, Last Couture Show, Théâtre du Châtelet, Paris, 22 January 2020, NOWFASHION (uploaded 24 January 2020): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tYDyi-B1FuU Jacques Becker (director), Marcel Rochas (gowns), Falbalas (1945): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0035853/ Paul Devine, ‘Jacques Becker’s Falbalas getting Blu-Ray Release’, The Peoples Movies (27 September 2021): https://thepeoplesmovies.com/2021/09/jacques-beckers-falbalas-getting-blu-ray-release/

We are catching a glimpse of life behind the scenes at Maison Drécoll in Paris in Tony Lekain’s 1923 film ‘On demande un mannequin’. See links below. Please check out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast Tony Lekain (director), ‘On demande un mannequin’ (1923): https://www.cinematheque.fr/henri/film/103077-on-demande-un-mannequin-tony-lekain-1923/ and https://www.imdb.com/title/tt16102410/ Didier Chappet, ‘Casque d’Or et les Apaches’ (8 January 2018): https://gallica.bnf.fr/blog/08012018/casque-dor-et-les-apaches?mode=desktop ‘Cinémode par Jean Paul Gaultier’, Cinémathèque Française (6 October 2021 – January 2022): https://www.cinematheque.fr/cycle/exposition-cinemode-par-jean-paul-611.html Birgit Haase and Adelheid Rasche, ‘Christoph Drecoll: Rediscovering the Viennese Worth’, Costume, Volume 53, Issue 2 (2019): https://www.euppublishing.com/doi/full/10.3366/cost.2019.0120 Images of Maison Drecoll: https://bibliotheques-specialisees.paris.fr/ark:/73873/pf0001614300.locale an

We talk about the amazing costume designer Sandy Powell who recently talked about her work at the Victoria & Albert Museum. See links below. We’d also love you to check out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast You Must Remember This, ‘Gossip Girls: Louella Parsons and Hedda Hopper (The Queer, Female Film Producer You’ve Never Heard Of, Episode 5)’, (31 May 2021): http://www.youmustrememberthispodcast.com/episodes/2021/5/5/gossip-girls-queer-film-producer-5 Walter Lang (director), Travis Banton (Miss Lombard’s gowns), Brymer (other gowns), ‘Love Before Breakfast’ (1936): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0027908/ Gregory La Cava (director), Travis Banton (Miss Lombard’s gowns), Brymer (other gowns), ‘My Man Godfrey’ (1936): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0028010/ Richard Dyer, ‘White’, Routledge (2017, first published 1997): https://www.routledge.com/White-Twentieth-Anniversary-Edition/Dyer/p/book/9781138683044 Past event: ‘Online Talk: Sandy Powell in Conversation’, Victoria & Alber

Even super-heroes sometimes need a little break ... This week we are reposting our discussion from about a year ago of John Lewis Curthoys' 1941 film ‘Border Weave’, produced by the British Council about the production of woollen textiles in the Scottish Borders, but also about empire, national identity and tradition versus modernity. See links below. Merel on Etsy: https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/mereltreasures MoMu Antwerp: https://www.momu.be/en/ British Council Film Archive: https://film.britishcouncil.org/resources/film-archive John Lewis Curthoys (director), Border Weave (1941): https://film.britishcouncil.org/resources/film-archive/border-weave John Lewis Curthoys and George Wynn (directors), Their Great Adventure (1948): http://collections-search.bfi.org.uk/web/Details/ChoiceFilmWorks/150057853 George Wynn: https://www.imdb.com/name/nm0943964/ Jack Cardiff: https://www.imdb.com/name/nm0002153/bio Joseph Todd Gordon Macleod: https://www.poetryfoundation.org/poets/joseph-gordon-macleod Lon

We talk about the thought-provoking exhibition of Helen Levitt’s work at the Photographer’s Gallery in London. See links below. ‘Helen Levitt: In the Street’, The Photographers’ Gallery, London (15 October 2021 – 13 February 2022): https://thephotographersgallery.org.uk/whats-on/helen-levitt-retrospective Photographers’ Gallery, ‘Helen Levitt: In The Street - Interview with exhibition curators Walter Moser & Anna Dannemann’ (26 October 2021): https://youtu.be/IfvaZBoIuYw Helen Levitt, Janice Loeb, James Agee, ‘In The Street’ (1948), The Metropolitan Museum of Art: https://youtu.be/hznvV2bBkX4?t=194 ‘Tomorrow is Ragamuffin Day’, New York Genealogical and Biographical Society (23 November 2016): https://www.newyorkfamilyhistory.org/blog/tomorrow-ragamuffin-day Vincente Minelli (director), Irene (costume supervisor), ‘Meet Me in St. Louis’ (1944): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0037059/ ‘Helen Levitt’s Indelible Eye’, All Things Considered, National Public Radio (17 January 2002): https://www.npr.org/tem

In our Halloween Special, we learn how magic and fashion combine in Anna Biller’s fabulous technicolour extravaganza ‘The Love Witch’. See links below. Anna Biller: https://www.lifeofastar.com/index.html Anna Biller (director and much else), ‘The Love Witch’ (2016): https://www.lifeofastar.com/lovewitch.html and https://www.imdb.com/title/tt3908142/ ‘#8 - Anna Biller, Filmmaker of “The Love Witch”, a conversation with Pam Grossman of The Witch Wave (31 January 2018): https://witchwavepodcast.com/episodes/2018/1/31/anna-biller-filmmaker-of-the-love-witch Emma Willis (key makeup artist): https://www.instagram.com/emmawillishmu/ Jester Puppet: Barry Morse https://www.instagram.com/barry_morse_artist/ Jacques Demy (director), Gitt Magrini (costume design), ‘Peau d’âne’ (1970): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0066207/ Laird Borrelli-Persson, ‘The Secret Life of the Arrow Collar Man, an Early 20th-Century Sex Symbol’, Vogue (12 June 2017): https://www.vogue.com/article/pride-2017-leyendecker-arrow-collar-m